Old Palapye
Enquire NowOld Palapye, or Phalatswe, is the ruined 19th century capital of the Bangwato people under Chief Khama III, best known for its striking Gothic style church and stone town ruins near the Tswapong Hills. Rich in Stone Age and Iron Age history as well as more recent colonial era heritage, it offers a fascinating walk through Botswana’s past, along with nearby gorges, waterfalls and Cape vulture nesting sites.
Old Palapye, also known as Phalatswe, is one of Botswana’s most important historical sites. Located about 20km southeast of the modern town of Palapye, at the foot of the Tswapong Hills, it was once the 19th century capital of the Bangwato people under Chief Khama III. The name Phalatswe means “place of impalas,” taken from the nearby hills where the animals were once common.
Khama III moved his people here from Shoshong in 1889, drawn by the area’s good water supply from natural springs and waterfalls. Under his rule, Phalatswe grew quickly into a busy town of around 30,000 people, complete with trading stores, a school, a prison and churches, all built in European style. The most striking building still standing today is the Old Palapye Church, a Gothic style London Missionary Society church completed in 1894 and built from local red mudbrick. It remains one of Botswana’s most impressive ruins. When water supplies eventually ran short, Khama III moved his people again in 1902, this time to Serowe, and much of Phalatswe was abandoned and burned.
Beyond its 19th century history, Old Palapye also holds artefacts from the Middle Stone Age, Late Stone Age and Early Iron Age, showing that people have lived in this area for a very long time. The site has been a national monument since 1938 and is protected by Botswana’s National Museum.
Wildlife is limited compared to Botswana’s larger parks, but the area is still home to baboons, vervet monkeys, porcupines, rock dassies and the occasional leopard. Cape vultures nest nearby in the Tswapong Hills, with the largest colony at Gootau home to over 200 breeding pairs. The nearby Photophoto Gorge, though smaller than Moremi Gorge, is easier to reach and has long been used by local communities for water and for spiritual ceremonies.
Visitors to Old Palapye can walk among the stone ruins of the old town, view the historic church, and explore the surrounding gorges and waterfalls. It is a place best suited to those interested in history, culture and quiet, scenic walking rather than big game viewing.