Gondar

Gondar, sometimes spelled Gonder, served as the capital of Ethiopia from 1636 until the mid-19th century. Its fairytale castles and stone fortifications earned it the nickname “Camelot of Africa.” The city blends a modern feel with an architectural style that harks back to the Middle Ages. Its royal history is well documented: the court hosted Louis XVI of France and members of the Ottoman Empire. Restoration work has since repaired damage the complex sustained from bombing during World War II.

Fasil Ghebbi forms the physical and architectural heart of Gondar. This walled Royal Compound spans 7 hectares and encloses six fortified stone castles, all built from the 1630s onward. The most striking is the three-story castle Emperor Fasilides raised himself. It stands 32 metres high and blends Portuguese, Indian and indigenous Aksumite influences in a style now known as Gondarine. UNESCO lists the compound as a World Heritage Site. Within its grounds lies Fasilides’ Bath, a sunken pool. Staff drain and refill it each January 19th for Timkat, Ethiopia’s Epiphany celebration. Crowds gather to watch a dramatic re-enactment of the baptism of Christ in its waters.

A short distance away stands the church of Debre Berhan Selassie. Emperor Iyasu I consecrated it in 1693. It was the only major Gondarine church to survive the Mahdist invasion of the 1880s unscathed. Legend credits a swarm of bees for driving off the attackers. Its ceiling features rows of painted cherubic faces, and its walls carry rich decoration throughout. Many consider it one of the most celebrated pieces of ecclesiastical art in Ethiopia.

The ruined palace of Queen Mentewab is also worth a visit. She served as wife of Emperor Bakaffa and later became regent to her son and grandson. Nearby stands the church of Qusquam, which she commissioned as a retreat away from the Royal Enclosure.

Gondar lies in Ethiopia’s northern Amhara region. Most visitors combine a stop here with the Simien Mountains as part of a multi-day tour. Flying is the easiest way to arrive: four daily flights connect Gondar to Addis Ababa and take just over an hour. Travellers can also reach the city by road, roughly 730km north of Addis Ababa and 176km north of Bahir Dar.